Saturday, 13 August 2016

Cruise Ships, Cruise Ships Everywhere.....

The Caribbean cruise ship industry is huge, one of the largest in the world in fact, delivering over $2 billion in revenue to the Caribbean islands annually. Unfortunately, this means us Caymanian residents have to welcome tolerate their passengers on our shores.
I didn't fully appreciate the size of the Caribbean cruising industry until I arrived on island and had to run down drive around hordes of cruise ship tourists to get to the office (which is on the waterfront just beyond the port, #caribbeanproblems) almost every day. The numbers are staggering. The average number of annual cruise ship visitors to Grand Cayman for the last 10 years is 1.4 million per year. In 2015, there were 1,716,812 cruise ship visitors. To put this into context - there are only 60,000 people living on the whole island!
A quiet cruise ship day
(my office is the cream building with the blue roof)
The Cayman Port Authority website helpfully allows you to see what ships are coming into Port and when (so you can plan to avoid the town if necessary and/or possible). At the moment it's summer on the island which is actually low season (rainy and humid) so we only get 1, 2 or 3 ships a day in port. Painful, but bearable. That's usually no more than 10,000 passengers. But in winter, the high season, there can be as many as 8 ships docked at once, pouring up to 20,000 tourists into town for the day for the duty free shopping, discount diamonds and day trips to the nearby sights. I cannot even imagine what that chaos is going to look like, but you may find me 'working from home' frequently in February and March. 
To make these numbers even more unmanageable, I should note that (1) because of the extensive coral reef surrounding the island, we have no cruise ship dock, so the ships park further out and the passengers are brought in by tender boat and (2) the ships can't stay overnight because gambling is illegal in the Cayman Islands, so they need to head back to international waters every evening so their delightful passengers can gamble the night away in the onboard casino. This means 20,000 tourists flood in and then recede, all within a horrifying 12 hour window. I'm imagining it looks a bit like that scene in Lord of the Rings Return of the King, where Aragorn calls the dead army to protect Gondor and they swarm in their ghostly green-ness all over Minas Tirith. 
Given the importance of the cruise ships to the Caymanian economy and the livelihoods of many locals, the Caymanian government is currently looking at how they can construct a long term solution full cruise ship dock, without decimating the underlying coral reef. Naturally, the discussions are heated. 
This was one proposal for an enormous concrete jetty but would have
dredged all of the underlying reef and caused massive damage.
Any solution is probably some time away yet, so for now, the cruise shippers continue to flood in on tenders every morning, swarming blindly across the footpaths and road as they do, and the rest of us count down to sunset when we get some peace and quiet again. 

Tuesday, 2 August 2016

Hurricane Preparedness 101

As I am writing this blog post, the wind is howling outside, rain is lashing the windows and there is a pretty spectacular lightning display happening across the horizon. This is not, however, a hurricane and a Tropical Storm warning has recently been lifted after Tropical Storm Earl veered West in the Caribbean sea and towards Belize and Mexico instead of the Cayman Islands (heads up, amigos!).
However, after two days of warnings and already two months into hurricane season, I thought it was about time I enlighten you all as to the wonders of living on a hurricane-prone island.

Hurricanes for the Uninitiated 

The short and sweet version of a hurricane is this: Wizard of Oz plus water minus munchkins. A more technical explanation might include mention that warm humid air rises up from warm ocean water, starts as a collection of thunder storms, moisture and heat energy fuel the storms and they start spiralling, when the speed of the cyclonic wind reaches 23mph, the storm is classified as a tropical depression, it then gets upgraded to a tropical storm when winds exceed 39mph and then voila! becomes a hurricane when wind speeds exceed 74mph and can hit up to 225mph. I obviously prefer my explanation.
The hurricane season in the Caribbean runs from 1 June to 30 November every year and in this time, about 10 to 12 tropical storms develop in the region, about half of which become hurricanes. Statistically, Cayman is brushed or hit by a tropical storm or hurricane every 1.68 years and sustains a direct hit from a hurricane every 5.3 years. I am only mildly (i.e. quite) concerned that we are now 5 years overdue for a hurricane. No biggie....

Hurricane Ivan

The last serious hurricane to affect the island was Hurricane Ivan in 2004. It hit Grand Cayman at category 5 (technically known as the Voldemort/Lord Sauron category) on 12 September 2004. The eye of the storm was just 8 miles from Grand Cayman and wind speeds during the storm were between 160 and 217mph. The storm surge, which caused much of the damage, was between 8 and 10 feet and covered most of the island because Grand Cayman is largely flat.

One quarter of the island remained submerged by water 2 days later, 90% of buildings on the island were damaged to some extent, 25% of homes were uninhabitable and 2 people died. It took months to reconnect power, water or sewerage to some parts of the island and 5 months later only half of the hotel rooms on the island were habitable. The damage to the island was estimated to be US$2.86 billion, which is 1.8 times the GDP. It was the 10th most intense hurricane ever recorded.


These three pictures show the before-Ivan, post-Ivan and present-day images of the Grand Cayman Hyatt Britannia Resort, which was one of the nicest hotels on the island and was used for shooting the movie “The Firm.” The damage from Ivan was so severe that it was never rebuilt and remains a shell. 

How to Survive a Hurricane

In view of the Cayman experience of hurricanes, the Cayman Islands motto is BE PREPARED! This is their official brochure which really induces calm, I think.
The whole first week of June is dedicated to talking about hurricane preparedness, which my friends and I realised we had completely ignored when storm warnings started coming in this week. And so it was that I and three of my fellow relatively-new-expats (for whom this is the first hurricane season on island) resolved on Monday night to go hurricane survival kit shopping together. It was obviously a very serious and somber affair.

Luckily, we all live in the same building so could divvy up the supplies a bit so for example, one person has the chocolate (not me thankfully or it wouldn't be there when the hurricane hits) one person has lollies, one takes paper plates while the other takes plastic cutlery etc. On Monday night we headed off to Cost u Less (like Costco) with our checklists (from which I wasn't allowed to deviate, notwithstanding that I think I made a compelling argument that a pool noodle would be helpful in an emergency)
About $150 later we had a selection of the following:

  • tinned food (soup, salmon/tuna, vegetables)
  • snacks (crackers, muesli bars, fruit cups)
  • fun food (Reese's pieces, Hershey's chocolate, sour worms) - not strictly on the list but we felt it was important for morale
  • torches
  • batteries
  • duct tape
  • tarpaulin
  • thick gloves
  • plastic bags
  • baby wipes
  • hand sanitizer
  • 24 bottles of water per person
  • toilet rolls
  • plastic cutlery and plates
  • first aid kit
  • mosquito coils
  • insect repellant. 
Just to be absolutely clear, all of this stuff sits in a sealed box somewhere in your apartment so you have it when a hurricane hits. That's $150 of stuff you don't even get to use! They also recommend getting battery powered fans, oil lamps, sleeping bags - all of which become outrageously expensive unless you're Bear Grylls, which I am clearly not. If the shopping hadn't been so much fun, I would really have resented the expense. And I'm pretty sure by the time something actually happens, the water will have leaked, the batteries will be dead, the baby wipes will have dried up and the snacks will have gone mouldy, but apparently that's the risk you have to take in paradise!
In any event, I'm now prepared for anything that comes my way (whether it's a hurricane or I decide to become a hermit) between now and the end of November! If anyone is planning to visit me around that time, there is a good chance that the only thing I will be offering you are muesli bars, crackers, tinned fish and sour worms on paper plates with plastic cutlery, washed down with stale bottled water, offset with mood lighting provided by a torch, fragranced courtesy of mosquito coils. Don't all RSVP at once!